🚨 Diagnostic Profile
Vehicle Make: Chrysler
Fault Description: Cruise Control Clutch Control Circuit Low. The cruise control system has detected a low-voltage condition on the clutch control input circuit, which is typically associated with the clutch pedal position or clutch switch signal used to disengage cruise control on manual transmission equipment.
🚨 Repair Difficulty Tier
Tier: [Intermediate]
Diagnosis requires basic circuit testing, connector inspection, and scan tool data review. Repair is usually limited to switch adjustment, connector repair, or replacement of a single component, but may require wiring diagram verification and electrical testing skills.
🛠️ Resolution Steps
Step 1: Preliminary Inspection
- Verify the battery state of charge and check for any other active DTCs in the powertrain, body control, or steering control modules, as a weak battery or parasitic draw can cause false low-voltage circuit faults.
- Inspect the clutch pedal position switch (often called the Clutch Upper Stop Switch or Clutch Start/Interlock Switch on Chrysler manual-transmission platforms) mounted on the clutch pedal bracket under the dash, directly above or behind the pedal arm, for physical damage, misalignment, or a cracked mounting tab.
- Check the clutch pedal free-play and plunger travel to confirm the switch plunger is being fully depressed and released through the complete pedal stroke; a collapsed or overextended plunger will not make reliable contact.
- Inspect the switch’s electrical connector and the harness routing near the pedal bracket and firewall grommet for corrosion, bent or pushed-back terminals, melted plastic, or chafing against the bracket edges.
- Trace the harness back to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Body Control Module (BCM), whichever governs cruise control inputs on this platform, and confirm the connector is fully seated and the locking tab is engaged.
Step 2: Diagnostic Verification
- Connect a factory-capable scan tool (such as a Chrysler-compatible wiTECH-class tool or a quality aftermarket scanner with enhanced Chrysler data) and monitor the Clutch Switch or Clutch Pedal Position PID in live data while slowly cycling the clutch pedal through its full travel; confirm the state transitions cleanly between high and low with no erratic flickering.
- Using a digital multimeter, check for reference voltage (typically 5V or 12V system reference, depending on whether the switch is a simple grounding switch or a powered sensor circuit) at the switch connector with the connector disconnected and the ignition in the RUN position, backprobing against a known good chassis ground.
- With the connector disconnected at both the switch and the controlling module, measure continuity and resistance end-to-end on the signal wire using the appropriate factory wiring diagram for this model and year; resistance should read near 0 ohms with no intermittent opens when the harness is flexed.
- Check for a short to ground on the clutch control signal circuit by isolating the harness from both the switch and the module, then measuring resistance from the signal pin to chassis ground; an unexpected low-resistance reading confirms a chafed wire or pinched harness section.
- Pull all stored and pending DTCs from the PCM, BCM, and Steering Control Module if equipped with a cruise control stalk, and cross-reference any related Technical Service Bulletins for known clutch switch or harness routing issues on this specific model and production year.
Step 3: Resolution & Reset Process
- Repair or replace the faulty clutch switch, connector pigtail, or damaged harness section based on the verified test results, using factory-style weatherproof splice connectors or OEM-equivalent connector repair kits rather than generic butt splices.
- Reinstall and adjust the clutch switch per factory torque and plunger-depth specification, ensuring the switch is threaded or clipped in until the plunger just contacts the pedal arm at rest with the pedal fully released.
- Clear all stored DTCs with the scan tool, cycle the ignition off for a full module sleep cycle, then restart and confirm the cruise control fault and MIL do not return.
- Perform a road test on a safe, controlled road, engaging cruise control at highway speed and confirming immediate, reliable disengagement each time the clutch pedal is depressed.
- Recheck live data after the road test to confirm the clutch switch state and circuit voltage remain stable and within expected range under normal driving vibration and temperature changes.
📦 Parts, Labor, and Budget Estimates
Required Components/Software:
- Clutch pedal position switch (clutch interlock/upper stop switch) — OEM Mopar part, verify exact part number against VIN at dealer parts counter or OEM catalog
- Connector pigtail or weatherproof harness repair kit for the clutch switch circuit
- Replacement clips, pedal bracket retainers, or switch mounting hardware as needed
- Factory scan tool access (wiTECH 2.0 subscription or equivalent) for DTC confirmation and any applicable PCM/BCM software calibration update
Average Component Price:
- Clutch pedal position switch: approximately $25–$75 for OEM Mopar part; aftermarket equivalents often $15–$40
- Harness pigtail or connector repair kit: approximately $20–$60 depending on connector style and wire gauge
- Software/calibration update (if a TSB applies): typically $0 if under warranty, otherwise approximately $150–$250 one-hour dealer programming fee
Estimated Labor Hours:
- Diagnosis and circuit testing (including scan tool data review and multimeter verification): 0.5–1.0 hour
- Switch replacement and pedal adjustment: 0.3–0.6 hour
- Harness repair and verification, if required beyond simple switch swap: 0.5–1.2 hours
- Road test and final live-data verification: 0.2–0.4 hour
Total estimated out-of-pocket repair cost for a straightforward switch replacement typically ranges from $100–$250 including parts and shop labor at standard rates; more involved harness repairs or diagnostic time can push the total to $250–$450.